Wednesday, 29 July 2015

A to Z of Hanoi



This time three years ago, I was preparing to move to Beijing for the first time. It is almost unfathomable how quickly my experience in China has gone. I am hoping for an enjoyable fourth year!

With all this reminiscing, I started to think about this time last year. My summer holiday was coming to an end, which culminated in a return visit to Hanoi. I love Vietnam and when I knew that some of my colleagues were visiting Hanoi, I decided to make them a list of information and things they could do (and eat) in the capital city.

So, I have decided to share that list on my blog for anybody else who wants to make the most out of their stay in Hanoi. It is by no means the definitive bucket list for a visitor to Vietnam, but if you are thinking "what shall I do in Hanoi?" it might give some helpful hints or ideas of things to try and some of the things listed will be available or relevant in other parts of the country:

A is for: áo dài (ow zai/ow yai). This is the national dress of Vietnam.

B is for: Bánh mì. DELICIOUS Vietnamese baguette. The baguettes were introduced to Vietnam during French colonialism. You can choose different fillings but my favourite has to be bánh mì trứng (fried egg baguette). It usually comes with cheese spread, chilli sauce, cucumber, corriander and pickled carrot. You can find stalls selling these baguettes and point at the ingredients you want to include. You can usually sample this bread when ordering the delicious steak meal, bò bít tết.

C is for: Café culture. There are plenty of cafés to have a rest and people-watch. The décor in Cong Café will give you an experience of communist Hanoi. Whichever café you find, try the following:
Cà phê sữa đá – Vietnamese iced coffee with sweet milk.
Chè – Very refreshing. The ingredients include beans, coconut milk, yoghurt, ice and jelly pieces.
Sinh tố - fruit smoothie.

D is for: Downed B-52 aeroplane. There is so much more to Vietnam than being a war-ravaged country. However, the history of Vietnam is what has shaped the people and country today. You may want to view the B-52 aeroplane and take a walk around the surrounding area, or visit the Vietnam Military History Museum.

E is for: Ethnicity museum. The Vietnam Museum of Ethnology celebrates the 54 officially recognised ethnic groups in Vietnam. You can learn so much about the architecture, clothes, history and culture of the different groups that form Vietnam.

F is for: Fish sauce. Nước mắm and other varients are served with many dishes. Nước mắm pha (mixed fish sauce) is probably one of the most common. It doesn’t really taste fishy and also has garlic and chilli added to it. You can dip nem rán (spring rolls) into the sauce or bánh xèo (crispy turmeric pancake/crepe). It is also served with bánh cuốn and phở cuốn (fresh summer rolls which are like spring rolls but not fried).

G is for: Going veggie. If you are a vegetarian or fancy a break from meat dishes, then you should check out the Cơm Chay Hà Thành restaurant, located at Số 116, Ngõ 166, Kim Mã, Ba Đình. I really like the meat dishes in Hanoi but it was interesting to taste the traditional Vietnamese meals without meat. I particularly enjoyed the vegetarian spring rolls and the vegetarian kebabs.

H is for: Hoàn Kiếm Lake. A famous landmark in Hanoi, this lake (also known as Hồ Gươm) is where you will find many locals exercising and socialising while students try to practice their English with tourists. There is a legend of a turtle in the lake. If you spot it swimming in the lake, people believe you will get good fortune.

I is for: Ice cream – Kem Tràng Tiền is a famous brand of ice cream which is sold in close proximity to Hoàn Kiếm Lake. A perfect treat after a walk around the lake. Definitely good on a hot day and still good when the weather has cooled! You could also keep a look out for the humorously named "Fanny Ice Cream" shop, which I have been reliably informed is still in existence, despite moving from the Hoan Kiem Lake area.

J is for: Jail. For another history kick, visit the Hỏa Lò Prison (also referred to as the Hanoi Hilton). It was used by the French colonists for political prisoners and later used by the North Vietnamese for American prisoners of war. It is quite interesting to view the conditions inside the prison and to learn more about the war.

K is for: Karaoke. This is a favourite pastime of many in Hanoi. You can have your own room and belt out songs with friends, beer and snacks.

L is for: Literature – the Temple of Literature (Văn Miếu) is a very famous landmark for people in Hanoi and throughout Vietnam. It was the first university in Vietnam and is a rather spiritual place.

M is for: Mosaic. The Hanoi Ceramic Mosaic Mural (Con đường Gốm sứ) was created to celebrate the millennial anniversary of Hanoi being the capital. It spans about 4km and many parts of the mural tell the stories of Vietnamese history. It was completed in 2010 and was listed in the Guinness World Records for being the world’s largest ceramic mosaic. The mosaic pieces were produced in the nearby Bát Tràng Pottery Village, which is famous for porcelain (and also worth a visit).

N is for: Noodles. There are of oodles of noodles in Hanoi. Some dishes you could try are:
Phở (noodle soup). This is probably the most famous traditional dish from Vietnam. Most commonly a beef dish (phở bò) or chicken dish (phở gà). On the subject of phở, I would recommend that you try phở chiên phồng, which is fried square noodles with beef – super tasty!
Bún bò Huế - rice vermicelli noodle soup with beef.
Bún chả - One of my favourite dishes. It is grilled pork and noodles served with a dipping sauce and fresh herbs. Some restaurants offer it with spring rolls.
Mì Xào – fried egg noodles.

O is for: One Pillar Pagoda (Chùa Một Cột) so called for being on top of a single pillar, it is an iconic Buddhist temple in Hanoi and located near to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, so if you are in the area, it is definitely worth a look.

P is for: Puppets. The Water Puppet Show (Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre) tells historical and traditional tales. Even though the stories are told in Vietnamese, I would still recommend a viewing if you have time.

Q is for: Quẩy. This is fried dough and can be added to phở. I didn’t know that phở could get any better – but when I discovered this fried treat I was proved wrong!

R is for: Rice paddies. When I think about Vietnam, I often picture the green rice paddies being tended by workers in conical hats. I have seen some beautiful rice paddies in Vietnam and would recommend viewing the tiered rice paddies in Sapa, or venturing out of Hanoi to the nearby countryside in Bắc Ninh Province.

S is for: Streets – The Old Quarter. The street layout and architecture of old Hanoi has been preserved in this area. Each street was named to reflect the specialised items that were sold there. You can find many souvenirs in these streets and even visit the night market near Đồng Xuân Market. It is a great experience to walk around and imagine how life was on these streets many years ago. There are small restaurants and cafés to take in the atmosphere. In the past, I have got lost, so I would advise that you take your hotel card (with the Vietnamese address) at all times.

T is for: Travel – visiting other places from Hanoi is not too difficult. There are plenty of tours to the limestone karsts of Halong Bay and picturesque mountains in Sapa. You could also arrange a trip to Ninh Bình and view Tam Cốc-Bích Động which shares similarities to Guilin and Yangshuo in China. There are many other places in Vietnam to see, so if you have time, you would find plenty of historical and beautiful sites in Huế, Hội An, Nha Trang, Mũi Né, Ho Chi Minh City (Sài Gòn), Đà Lạt and Đà Nẵng.

U is for: Uncle Ho – Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum (Lăng Chủ tịch Hồ Chí Minh). Ho Chi Minh is revered by many in Vietnam, especially in the capital city. He image features on the currency and his photographs are displayed in many public buildings. You can visit his mausoleum to pay your respects and view his embalmed body.

V is for: Visa. If you want the visa stamped in your passport before arriving, you will have to go to the Vietnamese embassy. In the past, I have used the Visa On Arrival system. View the following website for more details: http://www.myvietnamvisa.com/

W is for: West Lake (Hồ Tây). The largest lake in the capital city. There are plenty of restaurants, hotels and recreational activities available in this area.

X is for: Xe ôm. Ôm is the Vietnamese word for hug and a xe ôm is a motorbike taxi (where the passenger would “hug” or hold on to the driver). Xe ôms can be a fun method of transport as long as you settle the price first. Some of these motorbike taxis now have a meter so the price will be determined when you get to the destination. I really like travelling by motorbike in the evening, feeling the breeze and taking in the sights and sounds of Hanoi.

Y is for: Yo! Bia hơi is a cheap draft beer and very popular in Hanoi. You can “cheers” with locals and chant “Một, hai, ba, Yo!” (1,2,3 yo!).

Z is for: Zebra crossings. Crossing the road in Hanoi can be a scary and dangerous business! Even if there is a designated crossing, you will still need your wits about you! Walk slowly and purposefully to the other side while keeping an eye on oncoming traffic. The many motorbikes will (or should) avoid you!

I hope this A to Z could be of some use. You can also search "Vietnam" on this blog for some other posts which include information about things I have done while in Hanoi.

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